jparallax

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Sunday, June 15, 2014

2010 VW Mk6 Golf 2.5L with Mk6 GTI exhaust

A comparison between OEM Mk6 Golf catback (left) and OEM Mk6 GTI catback (right). The five suspension points are at exactly them same location, but the GTI exhaust lacks the resonator. Of course, the outlets are also different, so you'll need GTI's diffuser. (The bumper covers are the same.) To be more specific, you need the following parts:
  • Rear spoiler x1 : 5K6807521H9B9
  • Tow hook cover x1 : 5K6807441C9B9
  • Torx screws x2: N90974701 (the GTI diffuser/rear spoiler has two more locations for screws)
  • Exhaust sleeves/clamps x2: 1K0253141N (you can use the original one on the car - in that case you only need one)
  • An aftermarket resonator
As suggested by several forum threads (e.g., this and this), Magnaflow's 10415 resonator is a good fit for this task. I found its length just barely enough - I need to adjust the exhaust sleeves so all four ends have enough coverage on the pipes. Nevertheless, it shows no problem to me after a month and several hundred miles of driving.
The diameter of the pipe ends for both Golf and GTI catbacks are the same, around 60mm.
The outer diameter of the Magnaflow resonator is about 61mm. It's a little bit larger than both OEM exhaust pipes, and barely fit into the OEM exhaust sleeves.
Start by removing the old exhaust sleeve between the OEM resonator and the cat. My car had several winters in NY, so there is quite a bit rust on the sleeve. To make things worse, the screws are facing INTO the exhaust tunnel. I don't understand why Volkswagen does this, maybe to avoid potential damage to the screws and nuts from the road debris? But this surely makes removing the sleeve a PITA. I spent whole afternoon to fight with these two nuts. Eventually, I used a small enough wrench that can fit into the tunnel to give me right angle (most torque) on the nuts to remove them.
There are two cross members at the exhaust tunnel to strengthen the car body. The front one is just in front of the sleeve (partially shown in the photo above). This one is handy, because it can support the catalytic converter when the exhaust is removed. (Service manual warns the front side of the catalytic converter cannot be bent too much, otherwise it'll be damaged.) The rear one, however, got into the way when I tried to remove the exhaust, and needs to be removed.
Following photos shows four of the five suspension points. (The last one can be seen from the left rear wheel well and is similar to the one below.) This one is at the rear left of the muffler and can be seen behind the bumper:
These two are just behind the rear exhaust tunnel cross member:
I removed these rubber mounts by applying some silicone spray on them, inserting a small Philips driver between the exhaust mount and the rubber mount, and forcing it out. The last mount at the rear right of the muffler is a bit different, shown in the photo below (see the annotation on the image). For this one, I removed the two bolts fitting the mount to car body (torque 25Nm) instead of removing the rubber mount from the muffler. (You still need to pull it out once the old exhaust is removed and reuse it on the new exhaust, though.)
Now simply install the new exhaust. I didn't reuse the old clamp due to rust, and also I made the screws facing downward so it'll be easier to remove next time. Photo below shows the connection between Magnaflow resonator and the catalytic converter
... and with GTI exhaust. The torque specification for the clamp screws are 25Nm. Also remember to install the rear cross member of the exhaust tunnel. Torque them to 23Nm.
Video is recorded by GoPro HD Hero 2 with open back plate, attached to the rear bumper with suction cup. The sound of this exhaust setup is surprisingly mild: outside of the car, it sounds just like a OEM "performance-version" car: with a little bit more low frequency growl comparing to the OEM Mk6 Golf 2.5L exhaust. Inside the car, there is very little difference: it just get a tiny bit louder under load, and is most noticeable when around 2000-3000rpm. (The engine noise itself covers the exhaust noise with higher rpm.) However, the sound quality is good, and feels special, mostly because of the 5 cylinder engine. I also find the engine revs a bit smoother, and the additional sound feedback also helps me on take off and heel-toe.
In summary, I don't recommend this setup for people looking for exhaust sound: the gain is minimal. For untrained ear/eye, the car just sounds and looks like OEM. Only car enthusiasts would notice the slightly revealed growl created by the 5 cylinder NA engine - an increasingly rare breed among the modern 4 cylinder turbos. Nevertheless, it's better than OEM - Volkswagen should just make this the OEM setup, in my opinion.

Thursday, May 1, 2014

KTM 990 Superduke clutch oil jet cleaning

Tools

8mm socket
6mm hex key
Slot screw driver bit (2in long) + box wrench
30 gauge magnet wire

Procedure

To access the oil jet cap, first remove the 3 hex bolts to remove the chainguard. Watch out the nylon lock nuts at the other end of the two of the lower bolts - it may falloff. Next remove the clutch slave cylinder by removing two hex bolts. Note: do not press clutch lever when slave cylinder is detached from the engine. Here is what it looks like when both the clutch slave cylinder and the spacer between it and the engine are removed. Notice the small pin on the clutch pushrod - don't lose it. Now you can remove the oil jet cap: you might need a 6mm hex key to do this because it's pretty close to the cylinder. Once the cap is removed, you can access the oil jet itself. There might be some oil remaining on top of the oil jet - use a tissue paper to remove them so you can see the recess on the oil jet better. You need a slot screwdriver to remove the oil jet (see the photo of the oil jet below), but forget about regular screw drivers - there is not enough space to use them. I used a long flat screw driver bit (2in long) along with a box wrench. Make sure you press the bit hard against the oil jet to avoid stripping it. This is a size 30 oil jet, as its marking shows. I used a gauge 30 magnet wire to clean it. Now install everything back: tighten the oil jet by hand, and install the cap (torque: 15Nm, don't forget the washer).

Sunday, May 5, 2013

2004 Subaru Impreza trunk lock cylinder got loose

Yesterday on my routine grocery store drive, when I parked the car, opened the trunk (with my keys) and... WTF!?


MY TRUNK LOCK WANTS TO ESCAPE!!

Luckily the cable connected in the back saved its life (and my money). Not knowing how to fix it at that moment, I was left with no choice but taping it and driving around whole day like a poor ricer who fixes his own car with tapes. =.=|||


The next day I did some search on the internet, found no tutorial about fixing your runaway trunk lock. So I decided to write one, and hopefully it would help if you somehow run in to the same silly problem as mine.

Step 1: Open the trunk.
Step 2: Remove the five clips around the emergency trunk lid release handle (plastic made, be careful...).


Step 3: Put away the trunk lid release handle assembly, and you will see the lock cylinder hidden behind.


Step 4: The rod clamp used to clip the cylinder in position has come off, that's the problem. I found the missing rod clamp in the corner of the trunk lid.


How the rod clamp mounts visualized. But this should happen in the back side of the trunk lid.


Step 5: This is how it looks after you put the rod clamp back. That's it! So cheaply mounted :(  I 'm kind of surprise it just came of once in nearly ten years.


Finally, the tape has gone :)


Wednesday, April 17, 2013

San Francisco Skyline

Thursday, January 17, 2013

我被撤離了!

該從何說起呢...

1/17 (Thr) 凌晨2點,一位警察突然來敲門,然後我們就被趕出房子了。

事實上,是整棟房子的住戶都被撤離了。

他還說不能告訴我們發生什麼事,我們要求他先證明自己的身份,結果他還找ID找了半天,是沒料到說會來這招嗎? XD 事實證明Davis的警徽還滿遜的,比我們的學生證看起來還遜。

走到屋外,我們才完全相信這不是惡作劇,因為外面已經停了4輛警車跟一輛消防車



今夜只能在lab度過...lab的暖氣開24小時真是太好了



一大早起來回家查看,情況升級了 囧 聽說要到晚上才可能解除

中間還發現火雞趁亂告白!


只好再回到lab,原來要讓一個phd工作最有效的辦法,就是把他家給抄了。



Sunday, November 11, 2012

Windows Phone 7.5 -> 8 再次評估報告

還記得今年二月的時候我列了11條理由,說明為什麼我決定不再使用WP7.5,要換回iPhone,也說好下一版更新的時候,我會再回來檢查改善了多少。

現在,搭載WP8系統的新手機終於上市了,我今天特地跑去AT&T store試玩了一下,讓我們來看看那11項缺點有沒有改善吧:


按鈕配置

Lumia 920的外型承襲Lumia 800,大致上設計都一樣,但USB插孔總算被移到下面,多餘的蓋子也去掉了;不過電源按鈕仍然在右邊中間,所以仍然會有誤觸的問題。

相對地,HTC 8x的電源按鍵跟iphone一樣在上面,就不會有誤觸的問題。

評估 (Lumia 920): 部分解決
評估 (HTC 8x): 已解決


音量控制

還是老樣子,你一調音量就會同時影響所有的設定: 鈴聲、音樂、遊戲音效、影片音量。所以免不了還是要時常調高調低的。

評估: 無進步


螢幕旋轉控制

我找了一陣子,還是沒找到可以控制螢幕要不要旋轉的地方,所以大概還是老樣子: 有些app你將會無法強迫它停在橫式或直式layout。

** update 2012/11/11 **

據說是有地方可以控制,只是我沒找到,所以算是有改進了。

評估: 無進步
評估: 已解決


地圖

不管是Nokia map還是Bing map,還是沒支援在手機上看Street view,也沒有3D map。

評估: 無進步


螢幕

沒機會拿到大太陽底下使用,所以不確定新機種改善多少;但起碼解析度大幅提升了,Nokia Lumia 920以及HTC 8x都有1280x720以上的解析度,字看起來漂亮許多,就像iphone 4一樣。

評估: 部分解決


附加功能

我忘記檢查這部分了! 之後再補上

評估: 作者偷懶


觸控

高速捲動還是有「速限」、回到頁頂功能還是沒有。舉個例來說,像這類論壇型的網頁,用iPhone4捲到底再回到頁頂只要6秒左右,WP8手機光捲到頁底就要10秒,捲回去再加10秒。如果你的通訊錄很大,或是你有上百首音樂,就知道捲動太慢有多痛苦了。

文字選取的介面跟以前一樣,似乎沒什麼改進的地方。

評估: 無進步


GMail中文支援

因為今天這支是展示用的手機的緣故,之前說的GMail中文變亂碼的問題還無法測試,之後再補上。

評估: 場地因素


電池

這真的要實際擁有了以後才能知道了,所以現在不予置評。

評估: 經費不足


訊息通知 (Notifications)

同樣因為是展示機的緣故,沒辦法測試WP8的notification是否有改進以前的缺點,只好留待有機會再補上。

評估: 我不知道


相機

總算有個改進的地方! Lumia 920跟HTC 8x的相機近拍能力都好很多,不再會有無法近拍跟掃描QR code的情況了。

至於在錄影模式下,Lumia 920的對焦能力似乎還是不太好,景像稍暗一點就會不太穩定或對不到焦;但HTC 8x就沒這問題,所以這是Nokia自己的driver沒寫好?

評估 (Lumia 920): 部分解決
評估 (HTC 8x): 已解決


結論

很遺憾地,這11條缺點大多沒改進;事實上,對我來說,目前已知的未改進缺點已經足以致命,就算其它的全都改善也還是不夠好。看來我又要繼續等下一版的Windows Phone了...

Sunday, October 7, 2012

差點被隔熱手套婊...

剛才泡麵碗很燙,想說用隔熱手套拿。


拿著拿著覺得手指怎麼涼涼的,轉過來一看...



棍...

如果不小心用它來拿烤盤,我大概也會變這種表情吧。